Kayas Healthy Soil Guide

What is Healthy Soil?

·       Minerals- sand, silt, clay

·       Organic matter – compost, decomposed plants, soil amendments

·       Air and water – make sure the soil it not too compressed, drainage and aeration are important

·       Microorganisms and decomposers- fungi, bacteria, worms, insects

·       pH – most plants do well near 7.5, different soil amendments can raise or lower pH

·       Nutrients – nitrogen, phosphorus, and potassium are the most common “limiting nutrients”

o   Most plants remove nitrogen from soil, peas and beans “fix” nitrogen

o   Nettles, sunflowers, and borage increase potassium

o   Yarrow, dandelion, nettle, and buckwheat increase phosphorus

·       Organic and synthetic fertilizer can both improve nutrients, balance is important, so carefully consider what your garden needs (ie, if your pH is too low, don’t add peat)

Assessing Soil

·       Soil tests are great – but not necessary if your soil was recently purchased

o   At home soil tests can determine the proportions of nutrients in in the soil

o   University extension services offer more thorough soil testing services

·       Texture test

o   Squeeze the soil, is it sandy, sticky, loamy?

·       Smell test

o   Healthy soil smells earthy

o   Acidic or sour smells are generally not good. If soil smells like nothing or dust it probably lacks organic material

o   Drainage test – how long does it take for water to drain out of hole?

Building Healthy Soil in a Raised Bed

·       Lasagna gardening

o   Base layer: cardboard or newspaper to smother weeds and weed seeds

o   Second layer: bulk organic material, leaves, straw, sticks, (untreated) grass clippings, wood

o   Third layer: compost and topsoil, soil amendments

o   Soak each layer with water after adding to the bed

·       Year 2 Lasagna Bed

o   In the second year, the wood and organic material will be partly broken down and will add nutrients to the soil. You should test the pH of the soil, and add compost or fertilizer

Soil Amendments and Composting

·       Add amendments depending on what your soil needs – more is not always better – soil is an ecosystem that relies on nutrient balance to thrive

·       Too much phosphorus, carbon, water, etc can do more harm than good

·       Mulch around seedlings can prevent weeds and water loss

Compost

Adds organic matter, improves structure, boosts microbes

Year-round; top-dress or mix into beds

Worm castings

Highly nutrient-rich, gentle fertilizer

Around seedlings or in planting holes

Leaf mold

Great for water retention, structure

Fall/winter, or mix into compost

Biochar

Increases microbial life, retains nutrients

Pre-charge with compost or urine before use

Aged manure

Rich in nutrients, builds organic matter

Only use well-aged (6+ months); never fresh

Coconut coir or peat moss

Improves water retention

For sandy soils or container mixes

Greensand, rock phosphate, kelp meal

Mineral boosters

As needed, based on soil tests

What not to do:

·       Never use raw manure – manure should be aged for a least 6 months and composted to a high temperature. Raw manure contains dangerous pathogens, and it has enough to nitrogen to “burn’ plants.

·       Don’t over fertilize- it can damage the soil ecosystem and cause water pollution

·       Avoid compacting the soil

·       Don’t add grass clippings or organic material from unknown sources, it could have pesticide residue or pernicious weed seeds

·       Try not to leave the soil bare if the weather is going to be warm, mulch protects plants and soil